Portugal and Spain Without Spreading Yourself Thin

Coming soon!

Combining Porto and the north of Portugal with the lush Galicia, Spain.

Sidetrip from Madrid: Toledo

Coming soon!

Hanging out with Don Quixote

Streets of Toledo

Cathedral

Lladro

Cute nuns making marzipan

SOMEBODY’S excited

Macabre

Train Station

Sidetrip from Barcelona: Dalí Museum

Part of the Outside

Quick, name a Spanish artist! If you said Dalí, good job (although Gaudi is also an acceptable answer… but not the one I’m looking for)! This surrealist painter is synonymous with Spain so why not take a sidetrip to see his works at the Dalí Museum in his hometown of Figueres. Actually, if you have enough time, you HAVE TO go.

About 1h45 minutes away by Catalunya express train or 2 hours away with the regional train, the Dalí Museum houses the largest collection of his work and is, in itself, a work of art. Entry is 11 Euro. 8 for students and seniors. 

Thought-provoking, challenging, and mind-blowing are just some of the words I can think of to describe the works housed here. Built amid the ruins of an old theatre, his art is everywhere- inside, outside, part of the walls, on the floor and a glimpse at the celing reveals more and more creations as well. I’ve never seen anything like it! I promise you’ll feel the same way. He plays with perception, he plays with mediums/materials, he plays with depth and challenges what we know museums to be. True to Dalí, this place is unlike any other!!!

I can’t stress enough how AMAZING AMAZING AMAZING this site is. Don’t think of it as a museum, think of it as a wonderland. You’ll know what I mean once you see some pics. The highlight of my time there was the “Face of Mae West Which Can Be Used as an Apartment” work of art.

Give yourself a day for this. If you’re flexible with time, you can turn it into a 2 day excursion if you pair it and stay in beautiful Girona for a couple of nights. Dalí Museum in the small town of Figueres- DO IT! Visit http://www.salvador-dali.org/en_index.html for more information.

HUGE painting taking up a whole theatre wall

Face of Mae West

Dalí

Part of the Outside

Inside Outside

EuroTrip ’10 Eats

Inspired by the last post about what I ate in the north of Spain- it occured to me that I have many more food pictures from the rest of my trip. I’ll include new and the ones posted in the previous entry. I was travelling with my sister… Keep in mind I didn’t take a pic of absolutely everything I ate… only when I remembered.

Percebes- So scary! So good! La Coruña, Spain

Assorted Sausage, Tallinn, Estonia

Worthy Elk Soup, Tallinn, Estonia

Borscht, Plate of Potatoes, Saltibarsciai, Beer, Bread

Paella Valenciana

The Real Deal, Paella in Valencia

Food Stall in Helsinki, Finland

Jamon at the Market, Madrid, Spain

Jamon at the Bar- Granada, Spain

Sweets, Fes, Morocco

Juice Cart, Marrakesh, Morocco

Berberechos aka Cockles, La Coruña, Spain

A Starter of Escargot and Shrimp, La Coruña, Spain

Seafood Platter, La Coruña, Spain

Seafood Platter Up Close, La Coruña, Spain

Sangria in Valencia, Spain

Beautiful Berries in Helsinki

Unfortunate porkchop, potatoes, cream, and sauerkraut, Tallinn, Estonia

Hesburger, the poor man’s McDonalds, Helsinki, Finland

Hesburger Meal: Coke, burger, fries

Hummus and Fanta on the bus to Klaipeda, Lithuania

Icecream in Klaipeda, Lithuania

Saltibarsciai: Lithuanian Cold Beet Soup, Vilnius, Lithuania

Cepelinai: meat filled potato dumplings in cream and Svyturys beer, Vilnius, Lithuania

Me Just Chillin’ With My Paella and Sangria, Valencia, Spain

Sangria! Valencia, Spain

Sippin’ on Sangria, Valencia, Spain

Naxos, Greece: a Getaway From Your Getaway

Naxos- Portara of the Temple of Apollo

While some zip by to Ios or Santorini after having visited Mykonos, Naxos deserves a look. As the largest island in the Cyclades, it has a great coastline and a spread of villages to see. Let your first stop be Hora, the main town.

Besides customary cafes, bars and restaurants by the water like those found on many other islands, Naxos boasts a beautiful Venetian heritage that is still seen throughout Hora in the Kastro, the oldest area that sits above the town within the walls of what was once a castle/fortress with Venetian homes from the 13th century. Visit the Archeological Museum, Venetian Museum, or the Catholic Cathedral. Down below is the area of Burgos where the Greeks lived during this time. Be prepared to shop! I really liked the ironworks and jewelry!

If you’re staying in Hora, the most accessible beach is Agios Georgios. This sandy beach is the perfect option for families traveling with children- it’s not far from the hotels and restaurants and the water isn’t very deep. For something a little less crowded, travel  by bus 5km to Agios Prokopiosto where you can rent chairs and umbrellas or 7 to Agia Anna.

The Portara of Apollo, built in 522BC as the doorway of an unfinished temple of Apollo, is also a must-see in Naxos and best marvelled at during sunset. One of the things I love best about Naxos is the doorways!

Naxos Doorway

As one of Greek’s most fertile island, you’ll see here plenty of olive groves and vineyards. Trekking and hiking is excellent on the island; you’ll soon find yourself winding past old churches and orchards- just be sure to plan ahead as the island is large and bus access through certain towns may not match your own schedule. The towns of Apiranthos, whose citizens enjoy streets paved in marble, and Filoti, with its whitewashed houses cradled along the hillside, are worth a look.

Unlike some other places, Naxos isn’t party central- it’s a place to truly enjoy Greek island life. Families, couples,  and the 40+ set are likely to enjoy this island most of all.

Can’t get enough- Nafplio and Mycenae, Greece

A Venetian fortress on a hill,  testament to Nafplio’s long history and prime waterfront position, greets visitors of this charming port town as a fortressed islet, the Bourtzi,  keeps watch in the distance. 

As hoards of people visit Greece every summer, Nafplio, Greece’s first  capital, is  barely a blip on the radar for some, especially us North American travelers. All the more incentive to go! One of the reasons is because, as part of the Peloponnese, its mainland status is sidestepped for the famed islands but it doesn’t have any less charm… just less beaches.

Narrow, winding streets work their way through the town past Venetian homes and neoclassical buildings- those who know the beauty of Crete will appreciate the parallels in atmosphere and pace- especially with the flowers and waterfront bars and cafes!

Only 3 hours away from Athens, Nafplio is an ideal side-trip for a couple of days. Its frequent bus connections to Athens makes it easy to travel to, although I’d suggest visiting during the week if you want to avoid a crush of Athenians enjoying their time off on the weekend.

A few musts:

Look up every once in a while, there’s flowers from  balconies that stretch from one side of a passage to clear across the way!

Walk aimlessly through the streets and lanes of this pretty town. Inevitably, you’ll find your way back to the town’s main square, Syntagma, whose surroundings include an Archeological Museum and a parliament building. There’s the cutest jewelry and souvenir shops and nice restaurants along the way- it’s especially nice to dine off a small side street on a beautiful night. Try anything with eggplant in it! Have a few drinks by the waterfront, too.

 If you’re visiting Nafplio for a longer haul, check out the ruins of Mycenae, home of Agamemnon, a short bus ride away.

The most important attraction is the ‘Lion Gate’ (1250BC)- described as one of the oldest monumental sculptures in Europe, it is above the gateway to what was once a citadel. You can read more about it here: http://tiny.cc/jwe1n and click through the site for more on the following:

The Treasury of Atraeus- a beehive-like tomb, and the tomb of Clytemnestra, as well as a cistern you can walk down down into (but there’s absolutely nothing in there and you need light…) are some other points of interest.  The rest of the time you’re in Mycenae, be warned that you’ll find yourself looking at foundations of this bronze age citadel and filling in the blanks.

If you’re not into that thing, it might be a very long day for you… but I really liked it! There’s a museum too!

I’d especially recommend Nafplio to the 40+

Athens Excursion: Day trip to Hydra

A look at Hydra (pic from hotelmistral.gr)

 

If you’re in Athens for a few days and find yourself archeologically exhausted but don’t have time to go down to one of the famous islands and relax, make your way to the port of Piraeus and hop on the first hydrofoil to Hyra (pronounced E-dra). This small island is located just a 45 minute ride away.

Houses clustered up a hill facing the sea welcome visitors as they take to strolling the lanes. Noticeably absent are… cars! That’s right. Besides emergency and some construction vehicles, cars are prohibited on the island! I don’t know where they’d fit them anyway. NO CARS! I’m so happy I went.

It’s perfect for just an afternoon.  Where else in such a popular European country will you see sacs of bricks being saddled onto a donkey for a construction project? Where does a donkey in these countries carry crates of Coca Cola to bars, stores, and restaurants?

Nowhere but Hydra! 

I saw a man load a fridge onto one. I’m not even joking. A fridge! Hydra, well worth an afternoon if you’ve already seen what Athens is all about and want to unwind for the day.

Spain Eats: La Coruña

I absolutely LOVE seafood. It’s no wonder then that when I got to La Coruña, Spain’s Northwest town in Galicia, I got straight to work tasting the market fresh goodness the town had to offer. As a narrow peninsula, the sea is paramount here- you look left, you see the harbor, turn your head to the right and you’ll see the beach.

Here are some of the things I ate:

Percebes- So scary! So declicious!

Berberechos aka Cockles

The Starter- Escargots and Shrimp

Marisco Platter- So good!

Marisco Platter- 36Euro for 2 people

Pulpo a la Gallega

Tapas in Spain

As previously mentioned, I spent a couple of weeks in Spain this summer as part of a longer trip. I was there in late July and the weather was great, apart from a few humid scorchers in the concrete jungle (but fun city!) that is Madrid.

My FAVOURITE thing about Spain is the tapas- snacks or food of smaller portion that you can get at bars and restaurants. If you want something a bit more substantial to eat but not a full meal, you ask for raciones. Now, back to tapas… here’s how it works: You order a beer, you get a bowl of olives. You order another beer, you get some tortilla de patata, you order yourself another beer, you might get some croquetes, or calamari, or jamon, or homemade chips served with jamon, or a small sandwich with jamon, or whatever else the place is serving up that day- you get the idea.

Sadly, for me who hates beer, I only discovered towards the end of my trip that I didn’t always have to buy a drink to get tapas, I could’ve just ordered the the tapa. If you don’t mind the beer but don’t want to fill up on it- order una caña, it’s about a glass of beer… the expression might not be the same everywhere in Spain but they’ll most likely understand what you’re talking about.

All in all, I tapa’d my heart out in Girona, Barcelona, Valencia, Madrid, Granada, and La Coruña this summer. I’d do it again too, yum!

Beautiful Spain- Great for 1st Time Travelers

Over the summer, I had a wonderful time in Spain. Originally, I had the mistakenly thought that Spain was going to be a lot like Italy. I stand corrected. Spain is definitely in a league of its own and whatever shred of similarity I thought it had just because of a similar romantic language, it can’t be grouped in the same category. These are definitely two different places.

One of the things I first noticed upon arriving in Spain is the sense of relief I felt. As a North American traveler, I feel as though I can identify more closely with Spain, for some reason, than many other countries I’ve travelled to like France, Italy, or even Greece. The people are more easygoing than in, say, Italy. Italy for the North American traveler can be an overwhelming experience especially because of the TONS of tourists deposited there each summer and the fact that nobody waits in line. It’s nothing to get frustrated about- that’s just the way they do it there. But when I have to either wait in line for 5 minutes or fight tooth and nail to be recognized in line at the local gelto place even though the person behind the counter clearly saw me first but served the person who cut in waving a euro in her face… I’d rather not have the headache… and I’d rather not have the icecream.

Spain was the total opposite- everything is orderly and even in tourist hotspots like Barcelona and Madrid, I still felt like I had breathing room. There’s more signage, less schemers looking to get their hands in your pockets than in other places, and WAY better prices. Not to say that this runs rampant in other places…

If you’re looking to get away for the first time… or maybe the first time in a longtime, Spain is an amazing place to start. Beautiful landscapes, friendly and helpful people, clean, good for your pocket, great food, and you’re not falling over thousands of other vacationers. An added bonus is that the Renfe train system goes just about everywhere you need to be and has affordable prices, well kept, and comfortable too.

In sum- Spain: great people, great food, room to breathe, lots to see, relatively affordable

Viva España!